The Evolution Ridge near sunset The Evolution Traverse is an impressive length of continuous ridge on the Sierra Crest not far from Bishop, CA. It features an aesthetic wilderness setting, spectacular climbing on the very crest of the ridge, and reasonably solid alpine granite for much of the way. Peter Croft called it “…the best traverse I have done.” in his Sierra rock climbing guidebook. He first ran the complete ridge in 1999 by himself. Since then there have been …
Temple Crag Celestial Weekend 2012
I met up with Taylor and John at our Bishop office to do a gear check and packing session prior to our weekend journey to Temple Crag. Both Taylor and John have climbed with SMG for some time and were well prepared for a big adventure. Taylor and Howie planned to climb Darkstar while John and I would be on the stunning Sun Ribbon Arête. Darkstar is rated Grade V 5.10b and Sun Ribbon is a Grade IV 5.10a. After …
Wild Alpine / Ultima Thule – Alaska Ski! 2012
This year’s AK ski adventure was “all time.” I think that is the modern lingo for “best ever.” Aside from the fact that we skied perfect snow on all but 1 out of 7 mountain days, numerous descents in the 40-45 degree range on rarely (if ever) travelled, gigantic scale glaciers; and aside from the great company, excellent food, fine lodge hospitality, and breathtaking scenery, we did all of it in the heart of the most incredible and remote ski …
Palisades Traverse, June 2012
Jon asked the typical questions. “How many times have you done the Palisade Traverse?” “Does it ever get boring?” The first question does not have a ready answer, which is the reason that the second does. First of all, it never gets boring in the Palisades. That is because it is never the same twice. I have indeed spent a lot of time on the ridge-crest between Thunderbolt and Sill. Guiding and personal trips have had me up there linking …
Mammoth to June, April 2012
Carl and Glen on the effortless, yet unrelenting, climb from Minaret Vista Adventure is where you find it, spring has sprung, and skiing is more than snow; a trip this past weekend connecting Mammoth and June via the ultra classic San Joaquin ridge proved all these maxims. Carl has been telemark skiing since the year I was born. Glenn recently launched two young adult offspring and is returning to beloved mountains, this time on skis. I had “lost touch” with …
AIARE Avalanche 2 Course
We love avalanche education! A better-educated public skis and climbs smarter, skis and climbs more, and lives longer to ski and climb more. What’s not to love!? The American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE) is the leading provider of avalanche education curriculum in the United States. AIARE has developed a 3-step series of courses to serve backcountry travelers of all types. Level 1 and Level 3, living securely at either end of the hierarchy, enjoy a clearly defined …
Mt. Whintey Winter
There are a multitude of reasons for wanting to climb a mountain, particularly in winter, when the forecast is for high winds and brutal cold.”Because it’s there”might suffice as an answer if you were George Mallory and equipped with the nearly extinct elan that possessed his generation of climbers. Meeting the group that morning, appropriately if inauspiciously, at the Mt. Whitney cafe, I caught myself asking the same question. How do a group of nine people, whose backgrounds are as …
Sierra Lemonade
Mt. Whitney in early January 2012. photo: Alex Few Well I always thought lemonade was a summer brew, but as it turns out California lemons tend to ripen in the late fall or early winter. I learned this thanks to a stubborn airmass called the Hudson Bay Low. This atmospheric feature decided to park itself for the long term this winter. This may have worked out well for Alaska skiers so far this season, but it has left us high …
Mt. Whitney Winter
Indulge me a bit here, if you will. Usually I try and post SMG trip reports here from the guests’ perspective. What made this trip special for him or her? What did he or she bring to the trip that made it so enjoyable? How did he or she rise to the challenges our beautiful Sierra offer? Believe me, Jason had an excellent time on Whitney, going above and beyond his own expectations. An early January Whitney summit is a …
Ice Climbing, Parker Canyon CA
The lack of snow and cold short days may get some skiers down this time of year, but not for those willing to hike a little and swing some tools in the frozen seeps of the Eastern Sierra. The Parker Canyon trail head typically gets buried by big early season storms making the approach way too long for short winter days. However this season, we have little to no coverage at the lower elevations and were able to drive up …
Glen Plake & Howie Schwartz Ski Black Divide
Journey to the Black Divide- Part One UIAGM Ski and Mountain Guide, Howie Schwartz and professional skiing ambassador, Glen Plake get together for some adventure skiing in the heart of the Sierra Nevada, California, in search of “probable” first descents. Part 1 features a discussion on tips for setting up a successful multiday ski mountaineering tour in the Sierra. Supported by Outdoor Research, Sierra Mountain Guides, and Sage to Summit. Stay tuned, part 2 coming out soon…..
Climbing in the Owens Valley- Rocks!
In late fall, I hear alpinist and skier types complain when the first snows of the season start to stick to the mountainsides. Hopes for one more high altitude rock climb before the end of season are dashed, and impatience for the backcountry skiing sets in during this hiatus from the high country. These addictions can only be fed by wallowing on talus covered in 10 inches of faceted snow, generally alone (since you are the only one who thinks …