Category Archive

On the sunlit edge of Crystal Crag’s North Arete. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, in the mountains it’s all about flexibility.  Seems that’s the theme of my entries here.  “We were greatly rewarded by the flexibility of so and so… blah blah blah.”  But really, it makes a huge difference!  Ask not “how do I climb this mountain?”.  Rather, ask, “what’s the coolest thing to do right now?”  Billy came up for 4 days asking exactly …

THE EVOLUTION LOOP Two hours on day two brought the only stint of bad weather. Driving sleet blinded us from the East as we scrambled over high granite slabs, rounding pristine lakes and crossing primitive streams to the top of Muir Pass. I am wearing my only layers and they are covered in a coat of sticky white crud. Justin and Blake are setting the pace, their sights set on the hut situated on the summit of Muir Pass. We …

Negotiating the Ebersbacher Ledges in uncharacteristically cloudy conditions  The mountains draw all kinds of people on all kinds of missions.  Sean started calling and brainstorming with us months and months ago.  He has an avid and personal interest in history, especially when it comes to Owens Valley and water.  Sean educated us all on his family history, the history of water-rights and access advocacy in Owens Valley communities and how these things align.  In the spirit of Father John Crowley, …

Sometimes the best trips (or experiences or relationships or parties or… well, whatever) come out of changed plans.  This past trip to Middle Palisade was one such trip.  Chad  and John came with a long-dreamed itinerary.  John is ticking through the California 14ers (and might pursue those wimpy Colorado ones when he’s old and decrepit).  Chad is the consummate High Sierra history buff.  John and Chad have known each other for a long time now, it seems.  14er hunters love …

We had another outstanding adventure up Crystal Crag on Sunday with Dave and Betty from San Diego. I have guided this classic peak many, many times, by several different routes but I often forget just what a good introductory alpine rock climb the South ridge is for the uninitiated yet enthusiastic. Mind you, the South ridge route should be climbed on the ridge proper not by side climbing the loose and less appealing East face. By staying on the South …

Tom and his godson Michael stayed in one of the cabins at the Glacier Lodge the night before we started our climb.  I met them at their cabin in the morning and we enjoyed the cowboy coffee and delivered breakfast as we chatted about our upcoming trip.  After breakfast we packed up and headed up the South Fork of Big Pine Creek.  Our destination was Finger Lake and after some great views, rain showers, and nice lunch we found ourselves …

I met Jim at his hotel in Lee Vining at 5am.  We wanted to get an early start to make sure we were off the summit before the forecasted thunderstorms hit.  We threw his gear in the car and drove up the the Saddlebag trailhead.  The first boat taxi wasn’t until 7am so we did the hike around the lake and caught the sunrise on Conness with perfect alpenglow.  We hit the start of the ridge at 8:30am and we …

We had a great trip up Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route with JP S. and Collin D., September 2-4, 2011. Weather and conditions were outstanding. Three springs are flowing strong on the trail before the climb to Iceberg Lake. There was no snow at all on the route. We did not see many other parties in spite of being there on Labor Day weekend. There was some trash on the trail, which we collected on our way down. This …

After our success on the Jungfrau we felt like we had used up our weather karma.  With the forecast still indicating storms we decided to switch gears and focus on rock climbing.  We got an early start and headed for the local Glacier Wall right in Grindelwald.  The forecast called for afternoon thunderstorms so we got right to work.  After climbing 9 pitches we carried all our gear over the top to grab a great lunch at the restaurant, conveniently …

I met John and Kara (17) at the Whitney Portal campground to begin our Father/Daughter climb of the East Face of Mt. Whitney.  After a hearty dinner at the Portal Store we turned in for the night, but not before we had a bear traipse right through camp.  The next morning found us enjoying a grand breakfast at the Portal Store.  After stuffing ourselves we packed up and hiked up to camp above Upper Boyscout Lake.  The approach hike for …

 After our recovery day we decided to head back up to the Monchsjoch hut and give the Jungfrau a try.  The weather forcast didn’t look great but we thought if it didn’t snow too much we might get enough clear weather to give it a shot.  We rode the train back up to the Jungfrau Joch station and found it full of Mammut guides, people dressed in traditional 1800’s climbing gear, and lot’s of hubbub. We came to find out …

 After a hearty breakfast we boarded the Jungfrau Joch railway train that tunnels through the Eiger to over 11,000 ft.  There is always a strange mix of tourists and climbers on the train and this was no exception.  After an hour and forty minutes of climbing up through the mountain we arrived at the Jungfrau Joch station.  Truly a tourists paradise. You can eat in any number of restaurants, check out the terrace, ice cave, go skiing, sledding, do the …